走走看看(三) — 南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

走走看看(三) — 南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

毛毛爸

赤壁之战后东吴孙权听从诸葛亮的建议,迁都秣陵,并改秣陵为“建业”,在石头山(今清凉山)楚国金陵邑的基础上,利用清凉山西麓天然石壁修建了著名的石头城。当时滔滔长江从清凉山脚下流过,这里成为吴国最主要的水军要塞。

自唐代以后长江水道日渐西移,石头城作为军事要塞的重要性不再,开始废弃。唐诗人刘禹锡《石头城》诗云:山围故国周遭在,潮打空城寂寞回。淮水东边旧时月,夜深还过女墙来。

在清凉门到草场门之间的城墙下面,有一块凸出的石壁,长约6米,宽3米。因历尽江水冲刷,砾石剥落,坑坑洼洼,远看隐约象一个人的侧面。他面貌狰狞,红脸之外又有紫黑相杂,因此有“鬼脸”之称,这一段城墙也被南京人称为鬼脸城。

过去城墙前面还有一片水塘,明朝时朱元璋筑城,青灰色城墙依山而筑,砌在赭红色山崖上。民间传说军师刘伯温为防鬼脸兴风作浪,挖出一汪塘水,作为宝镜将其镇住,号称“鬼脸照镜”。

75年金日成访问南京时,指名要看鬼脸城。当时这一带环境脏乱,当局事先着实清理了一番。邓小平和乔冠华陪老金同游,为鬼脸城增添了名气。

看,就是这张脸
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明城墙越“鬼脸城”蜿蜒东去
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今昔非比,一泓绿水的“鬼脸照镜”
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鬼脸城下的公园,看到了远景中的跳伞塔了吧?从前这草场门外是郊区农村,我们小学开门办学学农(收山芋藤子)的向阳生产队就在跳伞塔边上。因同班同学写的快板书琅琅上口,我到现在还记得几句:“钟山高,长江长,开门办学到向阳”。
873485939 838856e5b9 o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

由鬼脸城沿秦淮河一路向西,步行不到一小时,经下关而抵长江。往北望,南京长江大桥就在眼前。2000年起,市政府花大力治理秦淮河。秦淮河西龙江小区一带成为高校和省极机关的住宅集中地,人气愈旺,高楼越盖越多越漂亮,带动周边商业、学校滚动发展。人民医院(前工人医院)、金陵中学、29中、宁海中学在河西都开有分院与分校。

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“江雨霏霏江草齐,六朝如梦鸟空啼。无情最是台城柳,依旧烟笼十里堤”。六朝(东吴、东晋、宋、齐、梁、陈)时的建康宫城“台城”早在五代十国时便已废除,但姑且容我借韦庄的诗文来描绘秦淮河堤、明代城垣上的青青杨柳吧。

873463163 84adaec776 o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

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河堤上的砖瓦是竖放着铺的,就象江南人家的天井。中央的图案都是和南京历史古物有关的,居民却颇有怨言,因凹下去的地方下雨会积水。
873463233 61bf7bc2bc o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

紫金塔 – 南京电视塔
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右边停的是秦淮河上的游艇,玻璃艇盖,据说平时没有生意
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堤旁古色古香的石灯
873514567 22ce725459 o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

对弈,观棋不语真君子
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河堤上的大众健身器械
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入夜霓虹灯柱亮起五彩灯球,鬼脸城前面的木板桥上熙熙攘攘,有人在桥上放起镶有各色灯珠的风筝
873485865 4744e8f80b o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

长虹卧波
873485909 c0ca3f10cd o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

873485897 aed944fad6 o 走走看看(三)    南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

再见,秦淮!再见,南京!

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4 Responses to 走走看看(三) — 南京秦淮河西,鬼脸城

  1. 申小毛 says:

    谢谢分享!我家就在电视塔下,散步二十分钟就到鬼脸城。看着真亲切。

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