Three Days in Barcelona (part 1)

Posted on Sunday June 9th, 2019 by MaomaoMom

巴塞罗那，处处皆景（一）

By 毛毛爸


加泰罗尼亚语与中英文对照：
Sortida （读音：索第哈）= 出口 Exit
Platja = 海滩 beach
Passeig （读音：帕赛机）= 大道 Boulevard
Palau （读音：帕劳）= 宫殿 palace

从巴塞罗那机场到市中心有两种选择：坐机场大巴到西班牙广场，再换乘公交巴士、地铁或出租；或者是直接在机场乘出租。巴塞罗那不能使用Uber，可以用另一个APP cabify，出租车很多而且车况新。我们乘出租车沿着Gracia大街一路往北，Eixample 区两旁都是洋气的建筑，可谓”处处皆景”。

谷歌地图给出巴塞罗那公交巴士、地铁线路都精准，T10公交卡方便合算，而且可以连续给多人使用，有几个人就打卡几次。Zone 1已经覆盖了市区所有景点，背后小字最右边的数字提示你还能用几次。注意机器只收5元、10元纸币和硬币

barcelona card Three Days in Barcelona (part 1)

第一天下午晚上活动请看图，天蓝色标示的是绿线L3地铁Diagonal 站和 Gracia大街站 ，红色标示建筑
arche Three Days in Barcelona (part 1)

非传统西班牙的巴塞罗那是观赏现代主义建筑风格的最佳地点，以Lluís Domènech i Montaner蒙塔内尔和Antoni Gaudí高迪为代表的建筑师们在巴塞罗那的Eixample 区尽情地展现出他们的作品：高迪的米拉之家、巴特罗之家，其他的有Casa Thomas, Casa Josefa Villanueva, Casa de les Punxes, la Casa Comalat, Pauli del Baro de Quadras

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高迪的米拉之家
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绿色标示的是三家西班牙小食tapas餐馆Cervecería Catalana，Vinitus和Cludad Condal，这三家网评都差不多。
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Cervecería Catalana名气最大，菜式多，价格偏高，而且不给订位。我们7:00到的，真切的见识到了网红店的人气，排队的游客从店里一直延伸到店外好远。漂亮的服务员淡定地告诉每一位急切的顾客：店里店外分两个队排，吧台不排队，直接站在别人座位后面苦等。我们算是幸运的，一小时后轮到，上菜的速度倒挺快，就是人声鼎沸乱哄哄的，不是太好的就餐体验
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煎辣椒，太咸
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Artichoke，炸洋蓟
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对了，在La Casa Comalat 斜对面有一家churros with chocolate西班牙油条店Xurreria Trebol，推荐油条蘸巧克力，好吃不贵

第二天，游览巴塞罗那市中心最热闹的兰布拉大街和富有历史感的哥特区。乘绿线L3地铁到Liceu站，沿着Rambla兰布拉大道一路往南，
rambla Three Days in Barcelona (part 1)

景点有：
La Boqueria室内市场
歌剧院 Gran Teatre del Liceu
奎尔宫 Güell Palace
皇家广场 Placa Reial
最后走到海边的哥伦布纪念柱像

据说兰布拉大街上扒手猖獗，我们来得早，兰布拉大街行人寥寥，只有两旁的餐饮店商家忙着上货
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高迪设计的奎尔宫Güell Palace
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皇家广场Placa Reial，广场周围的酒吧和night club有名，喜欢静静的这里，喷泉水池、明黄的建筑和蓝天相映衬好美，灯柱是高迪设计的
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La Boqueria室内市场，好象是游客必到的打卡地方
https://www.barcelona-tourist-guide.com/en/tour/barcelona-city-centre/guide-la-boqueria-barcelona.html
https://www.barcelonahacks.com/la-boqueria-market-barcelona/
https://devourbarcelonafoodtours.com/visit-la-boqueria-market/

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西班牙火腿
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如果你不去马德里，建议在这里买好吃的Spanish Turrón南欧的果仁牛轧糖，有杏仁或开心果、软硬、加巧克力好几种。

海边的哥伦布纪念柱像
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海边的购物中心的入口
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过海洋馆而不入，再往北走回到哥特区，一路风景

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巴塞罗那主教教堂Cathedral of Barcelona
我喜欢教堂、美术馆、博物馆，在巴塞罗那哥特区参观了三座教堂：巴塞罗那主教教堂Cathedral of Barcelona，圣玛利亚海洋大教堂Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar，Basilica de Santa Maria del Pi （第三个教堂收费而且没有什么意思，不推荐）
天主教的教堂建筑分等级，从小到大是：小礼拜堂Chapel，礼拜堂Church，座堂Cathedral，大殿（大教堂）Basilica。大教堂Basilica是教皇亲自封的，一个城市可以有好几处Basilica，但一个城市只能隶属于一位主教bishop。如果Cathedral同时又是主教的所在地，那么Cathedral称作主教教堂，比教区内所有Basilica的地位崇高。巴塞罗那主教教堂Cathedral of Barcelona是地位最重要的，也是我俩最喜欢的，建筑内外都精美，免费而且排队人少

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庭院里养了13只白鹅，纪念巴塞罗那的守护天使、为信仰被罗马人杀害的13岁女孩Eulalia
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大歌剧院Gran Teatre del Liceu
巴塞罗那一直为他们的加泰罗尼亚文化与身份而骄傲，从未放弃从西班牙大家庭独立出去的努力。巴萨飘扬的是红黄条纹的加泰罗尼亚旗帜，这和马德里满城的西班牙国旗恰成对比。

加泰罗尼亚文化象征之一是大歌剧院Gran Teatre del Liceu，有英文与中文导览

大歌剧院的建筑师是1852年出生于巴塞罗那的Lluís Domènech i Montaner蒙塔内尔（其实蒙塔内尔是他的母姓，父姓应当是多明尼克），他和同时代的Antoni Gaudí高迪一起，开创了巴塞罗那的现代主义建筑风格。我非常欣赏蒙塔内尔，他是大师中的大师，设计的巴塞罗那大歌剧院和圣保罗医院双双成为联合国世界文化遗产建筑。蒙塔内尔对巴塞罗那的贡献与知名度甚至超过高迪，只是外人不了解。我个人对高迪的艺术风格不太喜欢，所以他的米罗之家、巴特罗之家和奎尔公园都没有买票进去。

巴塞罗那大歌剧院原址是一座修道院，周围的空间很小，蒙塔内尔硬是在螺蛳壳里做道场，利用光线、花窗、马赛克与雕塑、各种浅色调的象征主义图案，营造出温暖迷幻的氛围。歌剧院的乐池只能容纳100位乐手，所以不能演出交响乐，却适合歌剧演出。

西班牙内战期间，独裁者弗朗哥强迫歌剧院更改名字，去除或遮盖加泰罗尼亚文化符号因素

街道很窄，门面无法摄全
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二楼的阳台和花窗，橘黄和浅绿是他的风格
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巨型天窗和二楼拱窗的将自然光线洒满室内
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导游和乱入的我
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舞台两旁演奏各种乐器的女神
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楼上两侧的雕塑，右边的奔马是加泰罗尼亚象征，左边是合唱团创办人的头像
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参观完大歌剧院之后，就在街边乘坐巴士往北回到住处休息，自由行就有这个好处，自己安排行程，不用跟团早晚奔波。
中饭去了房东推荐的附近当地人常去的餐馆 El Glop

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他家的两款海鲜饭大力推荐，海鲜料非常丰富，15€一份两人吃正正好。第一次吃的墨鱼汁海鲜饭
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第二次吃的海鲜饭，同样好吃
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烤鱿鱼吃上瘾了
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焗蜗牛有点太咸
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烤猪脸肉，端上来我们惊了：这么大一盘？幸好多半是骨头，肉并不多
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他家的甜点当地人都在吃，看上去像是芙朗 flan，上面加打发奶油，我们实在是吃不下了，看着眼馋。
第二次中午12点一开门就进去，点名要吃海鲜饭。一会儿来了八位国内来西班牙自驾游年轻男女，听他们说是跟着网上攻略找过来的，一边看手机一边七嘴八舌的点菜，网上资讯真是无远弗届。

对了，从El Glop往西，沿着Carrer de la Perla走300米，街口的阿拉伯烘焙店 Pastisseria Principe里各种蜂蜜果仁酥皮点心，好吃极了

下午再回到哥特区，参加了圣玛利亚海洋大教堂Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar 的roof top tour 登上教堂屋顶的导览。古代时候，这座教堂离海岸线很近，后来因为陆地拓展，海岸线不断向后退却。

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吊灯
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穹顶最高点带图案的 keystone
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放大了看
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登顶，钟楼上的玫瑰花窗
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屋顶上黑色凸起的部分就是keystone
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巴塞罗那全景
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晚上按照网上点评，继续寻找最好吃的海鲜饭。Arume虽然坐落在一个不太好的居民区，但是它的网上评价很高。晚上7点开门时游客们已经在排队了，叫号而入。他家的海鲜饭很有名，可惜并不出色，比不上El Glop，不推荐。
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焗鲜贝，好吃但挺贵的
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鱿鱼，下面是血肠 blood pudding
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