走走看看(三) — 南京秦淮河西，鬼脸城
毛毛爸
赤壁之战后东吴孙权听从诸葛亮的建议，迁都秣陵，并改秣陵为“建业”，在石头山（今清凉山）楚国金陵邑的基础上，利用清凉山西麓天然石壁修建了著名的石头城。当时滔滔长江从清凉山脚下流过，这里成为吴国最主要的水军要塞。
自唐代以后长江水道日渐西移，石头城作为军事要塞的重要性不再，开始废弃。唐诗人刘禹锡《石头城》诗云：山围故国周遭在，潮打空城寂寞回。淮水东边旧时月，夜深还过女墙来。
在清凉门到草场门之间的城墙下面，有一块凸出的石壁，长约6米，宽3米。因历尽江水冲刷，砾石剥落，坑坑洼洼，远看隐约象一个人的侧面。他面貌狰狞，红脸之外又有紫黑相杂，因此有“鬼脸”之称，这一段城墙也被南京人称为鬼脸城。
过去城墙前面还有一片水塘，明朝时朱元璋筑城，青灰色城墙依山而筑，砌在赭红色山崖上。民间传说军师刘伯温为防鬼脸兴风作浪，挖出一汪塘水，作为宝镜将其镇住，号称“鬼脸照镜”。
75年金日成访问南京时，指名要看鬼脸城。当时这一带环境脏乱，当局事先着实清理了一番。邓小平和乔冠华陪老金同游，为鬼脸城增添了名气。
看，就是这张脸
明城墙越“鬼脸城”蜿蜒东去
今昔非比，一泓绿水的“鬼脸照镜”
鬼脸城下的公园，看到了远景中的跳伞塔了吧？从前这草场门外是郊区农村，我们小学开门办学学农(收山芋藤子)的向阳生产队就在跳伞塔边上。因同班同学写的快板书琅琅上口，我到现在还记得几句：“钟山高，长江长，开门办学到向阳”。
由鬼脸城沿秦淮河一路向西，步行不到一小时，经下关而抵长江。往北望，南京长江大桥就在眼前。2000年起，市政府花大力治理秦淮河。秦淮河西龙江小区一带成为高校和省极机关的住宅集中地，人气愈旺，高楼越盖越多越漂亮，带动周边商业、学校滚动发展。人民医院(前工人医院)、金陵中学、29中、宁海中学在河西都开有分院与分校。
“江雨霏霏江草齐，六朝如梦鸟空啼。无情最是台城柳，依旧烟笼十里堤”。六朝(东吴、东晋、宋、齐、梁、陈)时的建康宫城“台城”早在五代十国时便已废除，但姑且容我借韦庄的诗文来描绘秦淮河堤、明代城垣上的青青杨柳吧。
河堤上的砖瓦是竖放着铺的，就象江南人家的天井。中央的图案都是和南京历史古物有关的，居民却颇有怨言，因凹下去的地方下雨会积水。
紫金塔 – 南京电视塔
右边停的是秦淮河上的游艇，玻璃艇盖，据说平时没有生意
堤旁古色古香的石灯
对弈，观棋不语真君子
河堤上的大众健身器械
入夜霓虹灯柱亮起五彩灯球，鬼脸城前面的木板桥上熙熙攘攘，有人在桥上放起镶有各色灯珠的风筝
长虹卧波
再见，秦淮！再见，南京！
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