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Tag Archives: 随笔
肉燕的来历
肉燕的来历 毛毛爸补充 扁肉燕(简称肉燕)同鱼丸一样都是名声在外的福州名菜,但对于福州人来说,它象征意头超出了美食的范畴。福州风俗中有一道名菜“太平燕”,是以扁肉燕与鸭蛋共煮,因福州话里鸭蛋与 “压浪”同音,寓意“压乱”“太平”。这道菜是过年,婚筵,和招待远客贵客必有的喜庆菜式。福州人说“无燕不成宴,无燕不成年”。 扁肉燕的来历相传在明朝嘉靖年间,福建浦城县有位告老还乡的御史大人,家居山区,吃多了山珍便觉口淡。于是家厨取猪腿的瘦肉,用木棒打成肉泥,掺上蕃薯粉,擀成纸片般薄,三寸见方的小块,包上肉馅,做成扁食,煮熟配高汤吃。因其形如飞燕而称“扁肉燕”。 而我个人认为口口相传是当不得真的,那扁肉燕的来历多半出自扁肉(福州馄饨)。福州老一辈人称扁肉为“建郡扁肉”,算来历史应当远远早于明朝。 与饺子千年不改的本色相反,馄饨在全国各地的叫法各异,闽南语叫扁食(是不是有古风?),福州叫扁肉。 福州扁肉的皮是很薄的,大大张的半透明,象金鱼的尾巴。吃的时候都不用咬,可以吸进肚子里去。扁肉的汤用猪骨头熬成,加上虾油(鱼露)。更特别的是扁肉的肉馅制作,不是像其他的馄饨用刀剁成,而是将猪腿肉除去除筋膜,放在木墩上用特制的木锤敲打,成细腻的肉泥。 那么大家看到这里,一定知道扁肉燕名称的来历了。店家将猪瘦肉用木棰敲打成茸,再加入番薯(山芋)粉,做成薄如纸的皮子,即为燕皮。燕皮用剪刀对半剪成方形,比馄饨皮略小,稍浸一下水,包成后露出的短角好像燕子的尾翼。燕皮成品是干燥的,放在干燥凉爽地方能长久储存。 在福州僻街小巷,听到有节奏的“嗒、嗒”之声,循声而去,就是燕皮店。最有名的是同利肉燕老铺,创始于一八七六年,至今已传承五代。 “吃了太平燕,家家得太平”,祝大家牛年好运! You might also like:【Baked Spring Rolls with Pork and Shrimp】【虾肉春卷】Green pepper and beancurd stir fry 青椒炒素鹅青椒炒素鹅 Green pepper and beancurd sti…高升牛肉Braised beef in vinegar soy sauce高升牛肉Braised beef in vinegar … Continue reading